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Something like this. Oh, OK. When I had pet turtles I always used to just find a rock or two that would permit them to crawl out of the water to bask. Tape adhesives will likely break down with time, but might remain sticky and get increasingly ugly. Test on an inconspicuous spot first to see how it affects your PVC. Your local hardware store has stuff especially for PVC, but one of the better grades of Gorilla Glue would probably do the trick.
Do you have any clamps? Something like Quick-grip bar clamps are a good investment- once you have some, you find all kinds of uses for them. We have a mix of medium quality kitchen knives best are Wusthof classic that I need to maintain.
What are your recommendations? In the past, we had ok results with this type of electric sharpening gadget , but I mostly used it on lower quality knives. In my experience, the gadgets all suck.
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At best they put a few barbs on your knife edge that actually damage the knife but provide the short-term experience of being sharper because the barbs are actually ripping through the material. Thus to sharpen your own knives you really need to buy a bunch of abrasive materials of varying fineness all the way up to a strip of leather and something to hold the knives at the proper angle.
Depending on where you live you can usually find places or better yet, crafty retirees who hang up their shingle on Craigslist that will do this for you. It was like getting a brand new set of knives. Also, we dropped the knives off the day we left for vacation, and picked them up the day we got back, so we never had to be without knives in the house.
An edge pro type sharpener will give a flawless edge. It basically just holds the knife and sharpening stone at a precise angle to each other you set whatever angle you want. It eliminates the skill needed for sharpening, however it is still work. The similar electric sharpener I have works fine, except that it scratches the sides of the knives.
Looks like they do make a 14 degree one. How long the edge lasts seems to depend more on the knife than the sharpener. When I sharpen my Henckels, they stay sharp for a while. I recently had some knives sharpened professionally, which is possibly the fastest solution depending on where you live. Our guy did every knife in our house in about an hour. I started researching this to figure out what had been done to our knives, which are probably about the same quality level as yours. I have a Wustof sharpening block at home, which I thought worked well but was time consuming. I think I found the cheftalk thread and this diagram was very helpful: knife edges.
However, it would seem that even Wusthof is unclear about the definition of hollow edge vs granton edge: nakiri description. You and some other replies here talk about getting knives sharpened professionally. How do you package large kitchen knives safely when you take them to a trip to the professional sharpener? When I pick them up from the knife sharpener they usually give me them in new sleeves rubber banded up. A good quality knife will hold on to the edge for quite a while. I sharpen mine at home once every 6 months with a generic water stone someone bought me from Amazon.
It takes me about an hour to do 3 knives. Sharping knives is, in my experience, very difficult. It can take a long time to learn to do it correctly, and even longer to master. If they are just kitchen knives then I would concur with Well… and just bring them to a professional for sharpening once a year or so. I recently took up wood carving, and unfortunately the main obstacle has not been, you know, actually learning to carve but instead learning to sharpen my knife.
You have to sharpen it frequently, usually every hour at least, as wood quickly dulls a blade and you need it as sharp as possible to carve properly. I do it basically the same way except for the soap what ist it good for?
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Also, the repeat loop appears wrong to me, I never go back from a fine stone to the coarse stone. Only repeat sides on the same stone, while applying less pressure in each repetition of both sides unless some serious abrasion is called for on the coarsest stone. Soap, or any surfactant, reduces clogging of the pores of the stone.
Oil is traditional on oilstones, but is messy, and, in my opinion, better avoided. I use simple green on India stones, followed by a Spyderco ceramic stone. In a real pinch you can use dried mud on piece of wood. I would add to step 3, check for the wire edge with a finger. This is a small ridge of metal rolled over from one side of the blade to the other.
Sharpening carving tools — gouges or veiners, is a bit tricky.
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Sharpening other woodworking tools, like chisels or plane irons, requires a bit of attention. Sharpening kitchen knives is pretty simple, and very hard to screw up so thoroughly that no progress is made. A few years ago, we did an interesting side-by-side test while butchering a wild pig.
Knives that would theoretically be sharper if you were to bother sharpening them lose every time to knives that are actually sharp because it was so easy to sharpen them. They sharpen one edge at time by keeping the knife at a constant angle against a series of rapidly spinning thin flat diamond coated disks.
A use a Wicked Edge knife sharpener. Hand operated, with a jig to maintain angle and a set of diamond units of varying fineness. An expensive unit, but it works very well. I have no experience with the electric equivalents, which if they work as well are probably a good deal less work. I just buy cheap-ass knives and then buy new ones when they become so dull that I get annoyed by it. Riverine warfare continues with the first two parts of a look at the subject in China. Question for you though: I noticed a reoccurring theme in your piece about these smart bombs projects coming together quickly and cheaply.
Is this kind of efficiency a common theme in the development of smart weapons and if so, what led to that? I can think of several other smart weapon programs which also came in fast and cheap by military standards, if not that fast and cheap.